Luca Soprana
Born in Valdagno, Italy in 1974 — fourth generation of a family steeped in horological tradition. Studied economics and philosophy in Bologna before attending WOSTEP at twenty-six, training alongside Kari Voutilainen.
In 2002 became WOSTEP's first Italian instructor. Career: Vulcain, Vianney Halter, BNB Concept (head of prototyping on the Concord Tourbillon Gravity), Patek Philippe, Rolex. Then, alone — Atelier SMA (Soprana Micromécanique Appliquée), in the shadow of Vaumarcus Castle above Lake Neuchâtel. Described as 'one of those known-unknown watchmakers at the very apex of their craft' — the invisible backbone behind the Jacob & Co. Astronomia, the Massena LAB Old School, and now signing his own name next to Derek Pratt's.
Philosophy: 'a refusal of the superfluous, a culture of detail.' Movement-first construction on ARCAP plates and bridges (non-ferrous, non-magnetic, thermally stable); straight Geneva stripes; black-polished steel; captions engraved directly into the movement, never plated.
Three current references: the Soprana Time Only (LSTO, 38.8mm, drawn from early 20th-century tourbillon architecture, transversal bridge, salmon sector dial, 42h power reserve); the Nagoma (collaboration with Italian knife-maker Emmanuel Esposito — LSTO calibre behind a one-of-a-kind hand-sorted black-lip mother-of-pearl mosaic, accompanied by a handmade Esposito knife); and — the defining reference — the Derek Pratt Remontoir d'Égalité. Years after first encountering Pratt's prototype, Soprana rebuilt it from the ground up with the blessing of Pratt's family. The DP07 calibre brings Pratt's Reuleaux-triangle constant-force remontoir — coaxial with the escape wheel — from pocket watch to wrist for the first time. Twin suspended barrels feed a one-second remontoir driving deadbeat seconds at 7 o'clock. Case: 41.6mm × 12.6mm in 316L steel or platinum, with the crown engraved 'DP'; front and back sapphire crystal. Three dial configurations (grey, silvered Roman, salmon Arabic), all signed 'Derek Pratt' on the dial itself. From CHF 135,000.
GPHG 2025 finalist. A handful of pieces per year — each by hand, each after a conversation.