Toledano & Chan
Toledano & Chan was founded by Phil Toledano — a visual artist, photographer, and watch collector known on Instagram as @misterenthusiast — and Alfred Chan, an automotive and watch designer, after a conversation between two enthusiasts on opposite sides of the world turned into a genuine collaboration. Toledano has described their creative dynamic candidly: 'the good thing about working with you is that you don't know anything, so everything is possible,' Chan told him, and Toledano has called the pairing of his own inexperience with Chan's design expertise a 'weapons-grade-level combination.' Both men have said their ambition is for the b/1 shape to become genuinely iconic, in the company of the Cartier Crash, the Rolex Midas, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — shaped watches whose silhouette alone became the point.
That debut design draws directly on Brutalist architecture, specifically the angular, deeply set window fenestrations of Marcel Breuer's building at the corner of Madison Avenue and 75th Street in New York (originally home to the Whitney Museum), applied to the case's own faceted geometry. The b/1 launched in May 2024 to immediate acclaim, selling out its full run of 175 numbered pieces in 46 minutes. Its angular, destro-configured 904L stainless steel case and integrated bracelet — 33.5mm across and tapering from 10.4mm to 9.1mm thick — carried a lapis lazuli dial under a sapphire crystal, its asymmetric framing echoing Breuer's own forced-perspective windows, powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW100 automatic with 42 hours of reserve, and arrived in a hand-poured concrete and resin presentation box echoing the case's own geometry. Priced at 6,300 USD, it was covered by Revolution as 'the most interesting watch design of the year,' drawing comparisons to the vintage Rolex Midas despite the b/1's own claim to originality.
The b/1's momentum carried into a run of pièces uniques: a 31mm carbon-fibre case infused with copper — the first watch made from that material combination — sold at Sotheby's for 24,000 USD, a further unique piece realised 35,000 USD through Phillips, and a solid meteorite case, its natural criss-cross Widmanstätten pattern left bare, sold through the TimeForArt charity auction that December. Co-founder Phil Toledano has credited 2024's auction results, alongside the instant sell-out, as exceeding the brand's own expectations for its first year.
A second colourway, the b/1.2, followed in early 2025, retaining the b/1's case architecture but introducing a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and, for the first time, a faceted, asymmetrical solid sapphire crystal that visually reverses the angle of the steel case beneath it. The meteorite concept was also brought into regular production as the b1/m, cased and dialled entirely in meteorite, including the buckle, at a slightly reduced 32mm diameter, worn on a round-scale crocodile strap with a yellow backing, limited to 30 pieces.
The latest release, the b/1.3r, unveiled in January 2026, marks the brand's first genuinely Swiss-made watch, rather than a Swiss movement cased and assembled in China — a change Toledano & Chan says brought a substantial jump in finishing. Grade 5 titanium, roughly 40 percent lighter than the steel used previously, replaces the earlier case and bracelet material entirely, in a reworked, 1.5mm-narrower case measuring 32mm in width, 31.5mm in length, and 9.1 to 10.4mm in thickness given its asymmetric facets, still destro-configured and still built around the same complex faceted sapphire crystal. Its 18k solid gold dial, patterned with an asymmetrical, water-ripple texture, deliberately contrasts the cold, industrial grey of the brushed and blasted titanium. Inside is the automatic Sellita SW100, 25 jewels at 28,800vph with roughly 41 hours of reserve. Limited to 300 pieces and priced at 10,200 USD excluding taxes, it went on sale February 12, 2026 — reviewers were split, with Monochrome's Brice Goulard admitting the design 'goes too far' for his own taste while crediting Toledano and Chan for 'a singular, distinctive object' that draws a genuinely polarised, love-it-or-hate-it response. A b/2 is planned for later in 2026, alongside further pièces uniques and possible collaborations, with the b/1 expected to remain in production alongside it.